AZGem Gems
April, 2002
The World's Most Useful
Gem & Jewelry Monthly Newsletter

Written by Carolyn Doyle for customers of
The Dorado Company
and other visitors to the azgem.com website who subscribe.

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Usable Gems... and a little opinion.

 

Accent Gem Stones

This month’s newsletter continues the discussion of jewelry mountings and expands the discussion to include accent stones.

Accent stones are called for in many colored gem stone mountings.

Usually, accent stones are small diamonds… but not always. Some people use CZ’s, white sapphire, or white topaz to save money.

This is never done in "fine" jewelry!

Small diamonds are referred to as "melee." According to the strict definition, melee means small diamonds up to one-fifth carat.

As a practical matter, I don’t know anyone in the trade who considers a one-fifth carat diamond to be melee.

When buying accent diamonds for fine jewelry, insist on full-cut diamonds rather than "single cuts."

Single cuts only have 17 facets. Full cuts have 58 facets just as larger diamonds have, so they are more brilliant.

We sell full cut accent diamonds at very good prices. I'll show you the price list a little later in this newsletter.

We can also special order accent diamonds in other shapes at very good prices.

There are occasions when small colored stones will be used as accents… maybe yellow sapphire accents with a fancy color sapphire center stone, or pink sapphire accents with a tanzanite center stone.

Now lets talk about the information in mounting catalogs...

Pictured below is a mounting from the Ptak Bros. on-line catalog This is one of the sites 

we visited last month.

Accompanying the picture Ptak shows the following information:

123-CS531G
6-.03 ct
12 X10 mm

S-$561.00
M-$228.00

The first number is the page and style (or stock) number.

The numbers 6-.03 ct. means that this mounting takes 6 accent diamonds with an approximate weight of .03 carats each… and of matching appearance.

Like colored gems, diamond weights below one carat are referred to in "points." There are 100 points in a carat, so a stone weighting five hundredths of a carat is referred to as a 5 pointer.

The diameter of the accent stone is more important than the actual weight.

Properly cut melee will have very little variation in weight to diameter, but small variations in diameter can be noticeable when the stones are grouped together.

The numbers 12 X 10 mm indicates the mounting takes a center stone measuring 12 by 10 mm (approximately).

The price code S-$561.00 indices the retail price of the mounting semi-set with the required accent diamonds.

Remember in last month’s newsletter when we were talking about mountings, and I said mountings come without stones… just prongs sticking up.

Well, this is the exception I mentioned. Some manufacturers offer their mountings with accent stones already set (as an extra-cost option, of course).

This type of mounting is called a semi-mount or semi-set.

The price code M-$228.00 indicates the retail price of the mounting only, no accent stones included.

Some mounting manufacturers use weight to specify their accent stone sizes and others use mm sizes.

Shown below is a conversion list for round cut diamonds, starting with the tiny one point size. I'm including our price list here as I promised earlier.

      Carat      mm      Our Price

  • .01        1.3         $6.00

  • .015      1.5         $9.00

  • .02        1.6        $12.00

  • .025      1.8        $15.00

  • .03        2.0        $18.00

  • .04        2.2        $24.00

  • .05        2.4        $30.00

  • .06        2.5        $36.00

  • .07        2.7        $42.00

  • .08        2.8        $56.00

  • .10        3.0        $70.00

Mountings and Findings Links

I understand some readers weren’t able to access the websites listed in last month’s newsletter for mountings and findings.

Knowing about mountings and findings is important for those who buy loose gems to be used in jewelry. 

I’ve re-listed those links below, using a different type of code this time.

Mounting Manufacturers...

Leo Ingwer Inc

Ptak Bros.

Findings Dealer...

Grenetz Co. Inc.

 

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Free Shipping

Don't forget, we offer free shipping on all orders over $99.

Just deduct the shipping charge when you fill out the order form. If you forget, we'll deduct it for you.

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Until next month…

please, visit me anytime at AZGem.com for a great selection of colored gems at great prices.

Carolyn Doyle

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The Dorado Company
P.O. Box 8232
Scottsdale, AZ 85252-8232