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This month’s newsletter continues the discussion of
jewelry mountings and expands the discussion to include accent stones.
Accent stones are called for in many colored gem stone mountings.
Usually, accent stones are small diamonds… but not always. Some people use
CZ’s, white sapphire, or white topaz to save money.
This is never done in "fine" jewelry!
Small diamonds are referred to as "melee." According to the strict
definition, melee means small diamonds up to one-fifth carat.
As a practical matter, I don’t know anyone in the trade who considers a
one-fifth carat diamond to be melee.
When buying accent diamonds for fine jewelry, insist on full-cut diamonds
rather than "single cuts."
Single cuts only have 17 facets. Full cuts have 58 facets just as larger
diamonds have, so they are more brilliant.
We sell full cut accent diamonds at very good prices. I'll show you the price
list a little later in this newsletter.
We can also special order accent diamonds in other shapes at very good
There are occasions when small colored stones will be used as
accents… maybe yellow sapphire accents with a fancy color sapphire center
stone, or pink sapphire accents with a tanzanite center stone.
Now lets talk about the information in mounting catalogs...
Pictured below is a mounting from the Ptak Bros. on-line catalog This is one
of the sites
we visited last month.
Accompanying the picture Ptak shows the following
12 X10 mm
The first number is the page and style (or stock)
The numbers 6-.03 ct. means that this mounting takes 6
accent diamonds with an approximate weight of .03 carats each… and of matching
Like colored gems, diamond weights below one carat are
referred to in "points." There are 100 points in a carat, so a stone
weighting five hundredths of a carat is referred to as a 5 pointer.
The diameter of the accent stone is more important
than the actual weight.
Properly cut melee will have very little variation in
weight to diameter, but small variations in diameter can be noticeable when the stones are
The numbers 12 X 10 mm indicates the mounting takes a
center stone measuring 12 by 10 mm (approximately).
The price code S-$561.00 indices the retail price of
the mounting semi-set with the required accent diamonds.
Remember in last month’s newsletter when we were
talking about mountings, and I said mountings come without stones… just prongs
Well, this is the exception I mentioned. Some manufacturers offer their
mountings with accent stones already set (as an extra-cost option, of course).
This type of mounting is called a semi-mount or semi-set.
The price code M-$228.00 indicates the retail price of the mounting only,
no accent stones included.
Some mounting manufacturers use weight to specify their accent stone
sizes and others use mm sizes.
Shown below is a conversion list for round cut
diamonds, starting with the tiny one point size. I'm including our price list
here as I promised earlier.