AZGem Gems

November 2015


gem stone and jewelry newslettergem stone and jewelry newsletter


The World's Most Useful
Gem & Jewelry Monthly Newsletter

Written by Carolyn Doyle for customers of
The Dorado Company

and other visitors to the website who subscribe.




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Usable Gems... and a little opinion.


Animal Jewelry with Gemstones


animal jewelry with gemstones

Ancient Greek Serpent Bracelet


Animal jewelry with gemstones is popular with ladies of, seemingly, all levels of economic means. Queen, duchess, movie star, society lady, career woman, your daughter... and most others you can name, own and wear animal themed jewelry.

Animal jewelry with gemstones has been a favorite motif with designers and artisans for thousands of years. In fact, animal-inspired jewelry stretches back into pre-history. For example, the ancient Greeks seem to have been big on snake depictions, as shown in the photo above..



animal jewelry with gemstones


From the "high-jewellery" firm of Chopard, and their Chopard Animal World collection, comes this exquisite pair of Immortal Peacock earclips featuring gold, diamond, and sapphire bodies. The chandelier style tail feathers feature heart-shaped alexandrite, amethyst, topaz and sapphire.



gazelle animal jewelry


18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire "Gazelle" Brooch. Created by famous French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

When this piece was presented for auction at Sotheby's Important Jewels Sale in 2013, it was accompanied by this description...

Designed as a gazelle carrying a branch, the head set with numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 4.40 carats, with two cabochon sapphire eyes and the branch set with five pear-shaped rubies, completed by gold ropetwist horns and textured gold ears, signed Tiffany Schlumberger.



fish animal jewelry


Van Cleef & Arpels' Seven Seas collection presents this Nageur fish from the Black Sea. This brooch combines the dramatic and monochromatic coloring of black spinels, onyx, and white diamonds - merged with lacy, flowing fins.


chicken little animal jewelry


A Multi-Gem, Enamel and Gold "Chicken Little" Brooch, by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.

Claflin designed several whimsical character pieces, based on popular children's stories, including Chicken Little, Humpty Dumpty, and Alice in Wonderland.

Claflin did important work during a career cut short. We will explore his biography in next month's main article.


flamingo animal jewelry


In November, 2010, Sotheby's Exceptional Jewels auction featured a number of items from the collection of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. One of the items offered was arguably one of the most famous jewelry pieces in the world - the Cartier Flamingo, designed by Jeanne Toussaint, director of Cartier's luxury jewelry department and Peter Lemarchand, her design partner.

Sotheby's provided this description for the iconic flamingo brooch:

Designed as a flamingo in a characteristic pose, the plumage set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the beak set with a cabochon citrine and sapphire, the eye set with a similarly cut sapphire, the head, neck, body and hinged legs pavé-set with circular-, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 95mm x 65mm x 22mm, signed to the clasp MONTURE Cartier and indistinctly numbered, French assay and maker's marks.


butterfly animal jewelry


This Butterfly Brooch by Jean Schlumberger was sold through Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels Auction , New York, in April, 2009. The catalogue described this item dispassionately, falling far short of conveying the beauty and charm of the butterfly...

Amethyst, turquoise and diamond butterfly brooch, Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co., France

The body set with 2 pear-shaped amethysts, the wings set with 2 cabochon turquoises, within a ground of pavé-set round diamonds weighing approximately 4.25 carats, mounted in platinum and 18 karat gold, signed Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, France, maker's mark, French assay marks. With signed box.


starfish animal jewelry


This starfish brooch is another design from the Van Cleef & Arpels Seven Seas collection. It represents the Arabian Sea, while other designs in the Seven Seas Collection represent the Red Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Adriatic Sea, the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea.

This openwork starfish is executed in pink gold, with pink sapphires, and both round and pear shaped diamonds.


bird animal jewelry


Is it the American Bird, or possibly the Patriotic Bird. I'm not sure it had such a name, but it should. This yellow gold bird brooch in red rubies, blue sapphires, and white moonstone and diamonds was designed in the World War Two era by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York.


panther animal jewelry


Panthère de Cartier ring - Platinum, emeralds, sapphire, and diamonds

For more than 100 years the panther has served as a mascot of the Cartier brand, and is the theme for a seemingly infinite line of jewelry and watches.

Cartier describes their panther this way...

A truly wild animal, the Panther is more than a mere symbol for Cartier. It is a timeless icon that is both predatory and elegant, restrained yet always ready to pounce. Roaming free with emerald eyes, onyx muzzle and diamond-set coat, the creations from the Panther Collection make their mark on the world of jewelry.


panther animal jewelry


Platinum, white gold, one 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon, single-cut diamonds, two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes), sapphire cabochons (spots). It is somewhat unique, in that almost all panther pieces have emerald eyes.

In 1949 Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, acquired this piece and enthusiastically added it to her collection. It was said to have been her favorite.


turtle animal jewelry


The Turtle Brooch is 18 karat gold, platinum, sapphire, hardstone, and diamond brooch, by David Webb.

David Webb was an American designer and jeweler. In 1948 he founded David Webb Inc. - the jewelry company. Antoinette Quilleret was the co-founder and former president of the company.

Webb was born in 1925, and passed away in 1975. He was a prolific designer and craftsman. His creations became very popular with high profile entertainers, society ladies, and other style setters. Although Webb passed at a relatively young age, his designs are still in production.

Webb's early designs often reflected the natural world, such as the Turtle Brooch.

If you are wondering what "hardstone" is... it's simply that - a hard stone such as quartz or jade, suitable for carving.


Animal jewelry with gemstones offers an array of subjects, simple to opulent embellishment, basic to "high jewelry" affordability, and more color choices than a rainbow.


gem newsletters


Photo Information


Top - Ancient Greek serpent bracelet, in gold with garnet

Next - Choppard Immortal Peacock earclips

Next - Jean Schlumberger Gazelle Brooch

Next - Van Cleef & Arpels' Nageur fish

Next - Chicken Little brooch by Donald Claflin

Next: - Walis Simpson's Flamingo brooch by Jeanne Toussaint

Next: - Butterfly brooch by Jean Schlumberger

Next: - Starfish brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Next: - American Bird by Van Cleef & Arpels

Next - Panthère de Cartier ring by Cartier

Next - Walis Simpson'd Panther brooch by Cartier

Next - Turtle Brooch by David Webb

Next: - Gem special offer - Imperial Champagne Topaz, round shape

Next - Industry News - Pigeon blood red and royal blue color  standards

Next - Dealer Product Image - Amethyst Ring in Sterling Silver

Last - Dealer Program Image - Pink Spinel and Sterling Silver Earrings



$1.99/Mo. for 12 months of Economy Hosting at


A Google search for links or images using keywords such as jean schlumberger or van cleef & arpels historycan return some very interesting information and websites.




Gem Offer


gem special offer champagne topaz


Here is this month's special gem deal. 


Gem:     Imperial Champagne Topaz

Color:    Pleasing Imperial champagne color

Quality:     AAA

Shape:     Round 

Dimensions:     9.1 mm

Weight:     3.83 carats

Price:     $95, plus shipping ($5)

Imperial topaz is the rarest variety of topaz, whether peach, pink, champagne, or orange in color. It became “imperial” when a Russian Tsar decreed that only royalty could wear this rare gem from the Ural Mountains.

Send me an email (with anti-spam) (carolynatazgemdotcom) and tell me that you want this fine gem.

We have other  shapes, sizes, and shades of gems available.

We keep gem prices low by buying quality gemstone rough worldwide, and having the rough material cut by our gem cutters in Asia.


gem newsletters


Gem Industry News


Press Release


Switzerland’s SSEF and Gübelin Gem Lab agree to harmonise ‘pigeon blood red’ and ‘royal blue’ standards



ruby and blue sapphire color standards


November 4, 2015- The Swiss-based Gübelin Gem Lab and Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF, recognised as the leading laboratories for coloured stone testing, have agreed to harmonise their standards for the colour terms “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue.” Their goal is to standardise the usage of these terms for the benefit of the international gemstone trade.

The colour terms “pigeon blood red“ and “royal blue“ have been used for centuries by the trade to describe, respectively, only the finest quality rubies and sapphires, which aside from their distinct colours, invariably are stones of superior quality, and hence are among the most coveted gems.

But, while commonly understood to refer to fine quality stones of specific hues of saturated red and blue, until now there never has been definite agreement as to the precise colours and quality criteria that correspond to the two terms.

Nonetheless, due to increased demand from the trade for more independent assessments, gemmological laboratories have of late begun to use these colour terms on their reports. But in the absence of an international standard, the use of both terms on lab reports tends not only to be inflationary, but frequently ambiguous. This trend is contradicting the terms' historical connotation.

Initially, SSEF and Gübelin independently developed their own strict criteria which rubies and sapphires qualify for these colour terms. Now, with the intention to bring clarity to the industry, the two labs mutually compared their criteria, and found them to largely coincide. A few minor changes were agreed upon to further harmonise the standards the two labs apply. Based both on colour and quality, they are detailed below.


SSEF & Gübelin standard for “pigeon blood red” rubies and “royal blue” sapphires:

1) Colour criteria:

For a ruby or sapphire to qualify for the term “pigeon blood red” or “royal blue”, respectively, the colour has to be an intense, saturated and homogeneous red or blue.

The exact ranges of hue, saturation and tone are defined by sets of masterstones. A comparison of the independently created sets held by both laboratories, Gübelin and SSEF, has shown that they are very consistent.

“Pigeon blood red” is best described as a red colour, with no apparent colour modifiers (such as blue or brown). A minute purplish tint is acceptable. The body colour of pigeon blood red rubies is complemented by a strong fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet light. This fluorescence is caused by high chromium content combined with low iron content, and results in the distinct "inner glow" coveted by ruby connoisseurs.


Historically, the term “pigeon blood red” was introduced for rubies which formed in marbles of the Mogok Gemstone Tract in Burma (Myanmar), and which are characterised by a very low iron concentration. With the discovery of additional ruby deposits in marbles in Burma, such as at Mong Hsu, and in other countries, this term is no longer restricted to rubies from the Mogok region. Nonetheless, most rubies from places other than Burma contain higher concentrations of iron that suppress fluorescence, and consequently do not comply with the labs’ criteria.


“Royal blue” is best described as a saturated blue colour, either pure or with a very slight purplish tint. While “royal blue” is a term that was historically coined for the best quality of sapphires originating from the Mogok area in Burma, sapphires from other metamorphic deposits, such as those found in Madagascar and Sri Lanka, may also display the properties required to qualify for the “royal blue” term.


2) Quality criteria:

In terms of quality, these colour terms can only be applied to rubies and sapphires that exhibit fine qualities, and have not undergone any modification of colour and/or clarity.

Any type of treatment (such as heating, fissure filling, etc.) disqualifies them from being described using these colour terms. Furthermore, they must be relatively free of eye-visible or dark inclusions, and they must show a homogeneous colour distribution with vivid internal reflections.

The size of the stones is not considered a criterion, meaning that small rubies and sapphires may qualify for these colour terms.


The goal: A harmonised standard to protect the trade

Gübelin and SSEF have agreed to harmonise their definitions and testing procedures for “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue”. The equally strict and well-defined criteria are based on decades of experience and research. With this harmonisation, the two labs ntend to foster a responsible and meaningful application of these terms in the trade.

"By applying these harmonised standards, it is the aim of SSEF and Gübelin Gem Lab to provide the trade with unified and consistent guidelines for the use of these historically significant terms," said Dr. Michael Krzemnicki, Director of SSEF.

"Clearly, such stringent sets of criteria implies that only a very small percentage of rubies and sapphires qualify” stated Dr. Daniel Nyfeler, Managing Director of the Gübelin Gem Lab. "This is in line with the experience and belief of both Gübelin and SSEF that historically only exceptional rubies and sapphires were attributed these quality terms."


More detailed information about the criteria for “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue” are found on the websites of:


Gübelin Gem Lab (



gemstone news


Jewelry Dealers


jewelry dealers wholesale


It is time! Right now you should be having conversations with your clients by phone, on social media, and through email. As always, be security conscious when posting and tweeting.

Recent terrorist events have people saying they intend to avoid shopping centers as much as possible this year. They intend to do more shopping online.

Again this year, when asked if they would be open to shopping at a jewelry party at someone's home, most responded positively. With that in mind, here is an excerpt from a previous newsletter...

Most home-based jewelry dealers rely heavily on recommendations from existing customers for new customers and sales.

Your customer base and sales can be increased significantly by a little innovative marketing. For instance, organize a couple of guys-only jewelry parties at friends houses.

Have the host invite his friends. They will become your customers because you offer good deals (low overhead means low prices on quality jewelry).

Your cost for the snacks and drinks should be paid for with a single sale. Offer the host an incentive... substantial dollars off a piece of jewelry for him, or for him to gift.

It has been pointed out to me that ladies also shop for jewelry to gift to others. Home jewelry parties attended by just your female customers and their friends can also result in substantial sales and new customers.

Be The Quality Jewelry Discounter.



gemstone news


Jewelry Dealers Program


jewelry dealers program


Do you enjoy jewelry and gems?

Do you enjoy talking with friends and friends of friends?

Could you use an extra income source?

Take a look at our great Jewelry Dealers Program.



Carolyn Doyle

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