Animal jewelry with gemstones is popular with ladies of, seemingly,
all levels of economic means. Queen, duchess, movie star, society lady,
career woman, your daughter... and most others you can name, own and wear
animal themed jewelry.
Animal jewelry with gemstones has been a favorite motif with designers
and artisans for thousands of years. In fact, animal-inspired jewelry
stretches back into pre-history. For example, the ancient Greeks seem to
have been big on snake depictions, as shown in the photo above..
From the "high-jewellery" firm of Chopard, and their Chopard
Animal World collection, comes this exquisite pair of Immortal Peacock earclips
featuring gold, diamond, and sapphire bodies. The chandelier style tail feathers
feature heart-shaped alexandrite, amethyst, topaz and sapphire.
18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire "Gazelle"
Brooch. Created by famous French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger for
Tiffany & Co.
When this piece was presented for auction at Sotheby's Important Jewels
Sale in 2013, it was accompanied by this description...
Designed as a gazelle carrying a branch, the head set with numerous
round diamonds weighing approximately 4.40 carats, with two cabochon
sapphire eyes and the branch set with five pear-shaped rubies, completed
by gold ropetwist horns and textured gold ears, signed Tiffany
Van Cleef & Arpels' Seven Seas collection presents this Nageur fish
from the Black Sea. This brooch combines the dramatic and monochromatic
coloring of black spinels, onyx, and white diamonds - merged with lacy,
A Multi-Gem, Enamel and Gold "Chicken Little" Brooch, by
Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.
Claflin designed several whimsical character pieces, based on popular
children's stories, including Chicken Little, Humpty Dumpty, and Alice in
Claflin did important work during a career cut short. We will explore
his biography in next month's main article.
In November, 2010, Sotheby's Exceptional Jewels auction
featured a number of items from the collection of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of
Windsor. One of the items offered was arguably one of the most famous jewelry
pieces in the world - the Cartier Flamingo, designed by Jeanne Toussaint,
director of Cartier's luxury jewelry department and Peter Lemarchand, her design
Sotheby's provided this description for the iconic
Designed as a flamingo in a characteristic pose, the
plumage set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the beak set with
a cabochon citrine and sapphire, the eye set with a similarly cut sapphire, the
head, neck, body and hinged legs pavé-set with circular-, brilliant- and
single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 95mm x
65mm x 22mm, signed to the clasp MONTURE Cartier and indistinctly numbered,
French assay and maker's marks.
This Butterfly Brooch by Jean Schlumberger was sold
through Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels Auction , New York, in April, 2009. The
catalogue described this item dispassionately, falling far short of conveying
the beauty and charm of the butterfly...
Amethyst, turquoise and diamond butterfly brooch,
Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co., France
The body set with 2 pear-shaped amethysts, the wings set
with 2 cabochon turquoises, within a ground of pavé-set round diamonds weighing
approximately 4.25 carats, mounted in platinum and 18 karat gold, signed
Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, France, maker's mark, French assay marks.
With signed box.
This starfish brooch is another design from the Van Cleef
& Arpels Seven Seas collection. It represents the Arabian Sea, while other
designs in the Seven Seas Collection represent the Red Sea, the Mediterranean
Sea, the Adriatic Sea, the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea.
This openwork starfish is executed in pink gold, with pink
sapphires, and both round and pear shaped diamonds.
Is it the American Bird, or possibly the Patriotic Bird.
I'm not sure it had such a name, but it should. This yellow gold bird brooch in
red rubies, blue sapphires, and white moonstone and diamonds was designed in the
World War Two era by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York.
Panthère de Cartier ring - Platinum, emeralds, sapphire,
For more than 100 years the panther has served as a mascot
of the Cartier brand, and is the theme for a seemingly infinite line of jewelry
Cartier describes their panther this way...
A truly wild animal, the Panther is more than a mere
symbol for Cartier. It is a timeless icon that is both predatory and elegant,
restrained yet always ready to pounce. Roaming free with emerald eyes, onyx
muzzle and diamond-set coat, the creations from the Panther Collection make
their mark on the world of jewelry.
Platinum, white gold, one 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire
cabochon, single-cut diamonds, two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes), sapphire
cabochons (spots). It is somewhat unique, in that almost all panther pieces have
In 1949 Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, acquired
this piece and enthusiastically added it to her collection. It was said to have
been her favorite.
The Turtle Brooch is 18 karat gold, platinum, sapphire,
hardstone, and diamond brooch, by David Webb.
David Webb was an American designer and jeweler. In 1948
he founded David Webb Inc. - the jewelry company. Antoinette Quilleret was the
co-founder and former president of the company.
Webb was born in 1925, and passed away in 1975. He was a
prolific designer and craftsman. His creations became very popular with high
profile entertainers, society ladies, and other style setters. Although Webb
passed at a relatively young age, his designs are still in production.
Webb's early designs often reflected the natural world,
such as the Turtle Brooch.
If you are wondering what "hardstone" is... it's
simply that - a hard stone such as quartz or jade, suitable for carving.
Animal jewelry with gemstones offers an
array of subjects, simple to opulent embellishment, basic to "high
jewelry" affordability, and more color choices than a rainbow.
Top - Ancient Greek serpent bracelet,
in gold with garnet
Next - Choppard Immortal Peacockearclips
Next - Jean Schlumberger Gazelle Brooch
Next - Van Cleef & Arpels' Nageur fish
Next - Chicken Little brooch by Donald
Next: - Walis Simpson's Flamingo brooch by Jeanne Toussaint
Next - Industry News - Pigeon blood red and royal blue color standards
Next - Dealer Product Image - Amethyst Ring in Sterling Silver
Last - Dealer Program Image - Pink Spinel and Sterling
A Google search for links or images using keywords such as
or van cleef & arpels historycan return some very interesting information and websites.
Here is this month's special gem deal.
Gem: Imperial Champagne Topaz
Color: Pleasing Imperial champagne
Dimensions: 9.1 mm
Weight: 3.83 carats
Price: $95, plus shipping
Imperial topaz is the rarest variety of topaz, whether peach,
pink, champagne, or orange in color. It became “imperial” when a Russian
Tsar decreed that only royalty could wear this rare gem from the Ural Mountains.
We have other shapes, sizes, and
shades of gems available.
We keep gem prices low by buying quality gemstone rough
worldwide, and having the rough material cut by our gem cutters in Asia.
Gem Industry News
Switzerland’s SSEF and Gübelin Gem Lab agree
to harmonise ‘pigeon blood red’ and ‘royal blue’ standards
November 4, 2015- The Swiss-based Gübelin Gem Lab and Swiss
Gemmological Institute SSEF, recognised as the leading laboratories for
coloured stone testing, have agreed to harmonise their standards for the
colour terms “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue.” Their goal is to
standardise the usage of these terms for the benefit of the international
The colour terms “pigeon blood red“ and “royal blue“ have been
used for centuries by the trade to describe, respectively, only the finest
quality rubies and sapphires, which aside from their distinct colours,
invariably are stones of superior quality, and hence are among the most
But, while commonly understood to refer to fine quality stones of
specific hues of saturated red and blue, until now there never has been
definite agreement as to the precise colours and quality criteria that
correspond to the two terms.
Nonetheless, due to increased demand from the trade for more
independent assessments, gemmological laboratories have of late begun to
use these colour terms on their reports. But in the absence of an
international standard, the use of both terms on lab reports tends not
only to be inflationary, but frequently ambiguous. This trend is
contradicting the terms' historical connotation.
Initially, SSEF and Gübelin independently developed their own strict
criteria which rubies and sapphires qualify for these colour terms. Now,
with the intention to bring clarity to the industry, the two labs mutually
compared their criteria, and found them to largely coincide. A few minor
changes were agreed upon to further harmonise the standards the two labs
apply. Based both on colour and quality, they are detailed below.
SSEF & Gübelin standard for “pigeon blood red” rubies and “royal
1) Colour criteria:
For a ruby or sapphire to qualify for the term “pigeon blood red”
or “royal blue”, respectively, the colour has to be an intense,
saturated and homogeneous red or blue.
The exact ranges of hue, saturation and tone are defined by sets of
masterstones. A comparison of the independently created sets held by both
laboratories, Gübelin and SSEF, has shown that they are very consistent.
“Pigeon blood red” is best described as a red colour, with no
apparent colour modifiers (such as blue or brown). A minute purplish tint
is acceptable. The body colour of pigeon blood red rubies is complemented
by a strong fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet light. This
fluorescence is caused by high chromium content combined with low iron
content, and results in the distinct "inner glow" coveted by
Historically, the term “pigeon blood red” was introduced for rubies
which formed in marbles of the Mogok Gemstone Tract in Burma (Myanmar),
and which are characterised by a very low iron concentration. With the
discovery of additional ruby deposits in marbles in Burma, such as at Mong
Hsu, and in other countries, this term is no longer restricted to rubies
from the Mogok region. Nonetheless, most rubies from places other than
Burma contain higher concentrations of iron that suppress fluorescence,
and consequently do not comply with the labs’ criteria.
“Royal blue” is best described as a saturated blue colour, either
pure or with a very slight purplish tint. While “royal blue” is a term
that was historically coined for the best quality of sapphires originating
from the Mogok area in Burma, sapphires from other metamorphic deposits,
such as those found in Madagascar and Sri Lanka, may also display the
properties required to qualify for the “royal blue” term.
2) Quality criteria:
In terms of quality, these colour terms can only be applied to rubies
and sapphires that exhibit fine qualities, and have not undergone any
modification of colour and/or clarity.
Any type of treatment (such as heating, fissure filling, etc.)
disqualifies them from being described using these colour terms.
Furthermore, they must be relatively free of eye-visible or dark
inclusions, and they must show a homogeneous colour distribution with
vivid internal reflections.
The size of the stones is not considered a criterion, meaning that
small rubies and sapphires may qualify for these colour terms.
The goal: A harmonised standard to protect the trade
Gübelin and SSEF have agreed to harmonise their definitions and
testing procedures for “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue”. The
equally strict and well-defined criteria are based on decades of
experience and research. With this harmonisation, the two labs ntend to
foster a responsible and meaningful application of these terms in the
"By applying these harmonised standards, it is the aim of SSEF and
Gübelin Gem Lab to provide the trade with unified and consistent
guidelines for the use of these historically significant terms," said
Dr. Michael Krzemnicki, Director of SSEF.
"Clearly, such stringent sets of criteria implies that only a very
small percentage of rubies and sapphires qualify” stated Dr. Daniel
Nyfeler, Managing Director of the Gübelin Gem Lab. "This is in line
with the experience and belief of both Gübelin and SSEF that historically
only exceptional rubies and sapphires were attributed these quality
More detailed information about the criteria for “pigeon blood red”
and “royal blue” are found on the websites of:
It is time! Right now you should be having conversations
with your clients by phone, on social media, and through email. As always, be
security conscious when posting and tweeting.
events have people saying they intend to avoid shopping centers as much
as possible this year. They intend to do more shopping online.
Again this year, when asked if they would be open to shopping at
a jewelry party at someone's home, most responded positively. With that in mind,
here is an excerpt from a previous newsletter...
Most home-based jewelry dealers rely heavily on
recommendations from existing customers for new customers and sales.
Your customer base and sales can be increased significantly
by a little innovative marketing. For instance, organize a couple of guys-only
jewelry parties at friends houses.
Have the host invite his friends. They will become your
customers because you offer good deals (low overhead means low prices on quality
Your cost for the snacks and drinks should be paid for with a
single sale. Offer the host an incentive... substantial dollars off a
piece of jewelry for him, or for him to gift.
It has been pointed out to me that ladies also shop for jewelry
to gift to others. Home jewelry parties attended by just your female customers
and their friends can also result in substantial sales and new customers.
Be The Quality Jewelry Discounter.
Do you enjoy jewelry and gems?
Do you enjoy talking with friends and friends